Ninnemans Experience Sturgis Rally

Sturgis. It’s the Olympics of motorcycle rallies. Without the woke, of course. Sturgis rally-goers usually leave their politics at home in favor of plain old red, white, and blue and stars and stripes. They show up for one reason – to let their hair down and let it blow in the wind behind their Harley. The rest is just scenery with a sidecar of rebellion.  And the view is as eye-catching on the road as it is in the city.

”I enjoyed the riding more than anything, especially going through Needles Highway.” Brian Ninneman of Milbank says. Brian attended the 2024 rally along with his wife, Jody, and their daughter, Alexis, and her boyfriend, Gage from Webster. Brian says, “Traffic on the way seemed pretty steady. We’ve heard stories about bikes getting backed up, but we didn’t experience that.” Pretty amazing when you consider the population of Sturgis – a community of 7,000 –, explodes for 10 days every August, when nearly half a million vehicles (470,987 this year) roar into town. The South Dakota Department of Transportation only counts vehicles, not passengers, so one click might be a single dude cruising on a vintage Indian and the next one might be a fam of six in a brand new Escalade. 

Everyone is welcome. Everything (almost) is welcome, too. “I definitely felt more empowered as a woman there,” Jody says. “So many people. You see everything! All shapes and sizes. Everyone accepts it. Nobody stares.”

But just because everything is welcome doesn’t mean everything is legal. Cops are as common as butterfly tattoos. Many of the officers pound the pavement. “Some were on bikes,” Jody says, “They really do keep people in line,”Alexis adds. Rules such as no open containers, not even in alleys, are enforced. “Bouncers stand at every door, checking IDs, and they stayed strict about who could enter.”Jody recollects.

Safety is more than encouraged. “If you’re on your bike at a stop sign, and you don’t put both feet down, you’re going to get pulled over.” Alexis says  The typical rally lawbreaker, however, is busted for DUI or a misdemeanor drug violation. In all, 1,455 citations were issued this year—an increase of less than two percent from 2023. However, this year, seven men were arrested in a sting and charged with attempted sex trafficking of a minor. “You see a lot of accidents, too,” Jody says, “But I felt like drivers in cars and the bikers were super respectful of each other. I actually felt really safe out there.” “Bikers are the nicest people, “Alexis says, “Usually they’re out doing poker runs for charity.” “Downtown was kinda weird, though ” Brian commented, “but you expect it.” Bikes are parked all the way down Main Street in four rows –  one row up against the curb on each side and two rows in the middle.

Jody describes the downtown legend, the Dungeon Bar, as “unique.” It is a hole in the ground…literally,” she says. The Dungeon is the oldest biker bar in Sturgis, and it is only open during the rally. It’s downstairs, and the place to be when the mercury hits 105 like it did this summer. The Dungeon’s popularity might also trade on its vibe. Victoria’s Secret meets Lord of the Rings. Dark, dank, and lacy. Bras and panties festoon the ceiling and graffiti and autographed dollar-bills cover the rock walls and the rustic bar.

Although interesting watering holes abound, the Ninnemans found the drinks in the downtown hangouts a bit pricey. “ A double Jack Fire and Dr. Pepper was $15 or $16 and others were $17,” Brian recalls. They agreed the best food was the brats and buffalo burgers at Custer State Park, although Brian liked the Brew House in Deadwood.  Alexis thought her nachos were too expensive at $22.. Of course, a lot of  things at the rally follow what’s called the outrageous rule. The more outrageous the better. Homemade bikini and mankini contests, whipped cream Twister, Beers & Burps, frozen t-shirt contests, a nude campground, and a few things that can’t be mentioned here constitute the norm. Misplace your morals or your dignity? You can always find them at the free pancake breakfast put on by the Sons of Light Ministry.

Ask a Sturgis native how, they feel about this yearly invasion of Harleys and hedonism and they might reply: “It’s like when your crazy, but bighearted uncle rolls into town, parties like it’s 1999, stuffs your pocket with cash, and disappears a week later leaving you dazed, relieved, and a bit sad. It’s an experience. One you won’t soon forget. Of course, multiple shops are happy to sell you a trinket or two to remind you. “I scored some really good sales at the Harley store,” Jody says. Unfortunately, as far as bringing home a Sturgis shirt, we kind of failed there.” Failure? Or just a really good excuse to go back next year?